The FAQ PAGE is a MUST READ if you are considering building or purchasing a trailer. You wouldn’t buy a car or house by simply looking at a pretty picture on a web site, nor should you with a trailer. Taking a few minutes to read through the FAQ PAGE will provide you a wealth of information. It will answer your questions (and the ones you should be asking) before deciding on a particular make, model, style or options for your trailer.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
(FAQ’s) ABOUT TRAILERS
(or ones you should ask)

Q. I want a multiple-use type trailer to haul my snowmobiles, building supplies and occasionally, my car----what do you recommend?

A. Psychiatric help! Most of us do not have the luxury of owning multiple types of trailers to select the best one for a particular use. We probably have one trailer that ends up being a compromise for the various uses we put it to. Therefore, in selecting a trailer to buy or build, determine the appropriate style for the primary use and decide if it will adequately meet the other needs as well. A  snowmobile or flatbed type trailer has the deck over the wheels which permits a wide deck (102” max) but higher deck than a utility or car-hauler type trailer. The utility / car-hauler style has a narrower deck (approx. 82” ) because it fits between the tires / fenders.

Q. Can I use larger tires on my trailer than you indicate in your your plans?

A. Yes you can but make sure they will give you the load capacity desired and you will still have sufficient space between the top of the tire and the bottom of the deck or fender (a spacer may be required between the frame and spring hangers). My rule of thumb is enough space when empty to easily place a fist on top of the tire. Also be
aware that the deck height will increase with larger tires and that tires with greater load rating may exceed the safe capacity of other trailer components (coupler, axles, frame, deck, etc.).

Q. Will Torsion axles give me a lower deck height then spring axles on my snowmobile trailer?

A. Not really. While you eliminate the springs, you will still need space between the top of the tire (a good “fist”) and the bottom of the deck for suspension travel---regardless of the type of axle used. I have found Torsion axles to run 30-40% more expensive then spring axles. The rubber “fingers” within the axle tube that provide the smooth ride in warm weather, get very hard and brittle in sever cold, causing a stiffer ride and premature failure. If the added cost isn’t a concern, they certainly can be used in place of spring axles (in warmer climates). Be aware, however that you will need to purchase or order one with the correct leading arm angle (choices from
45% down to 22.5% up), to insure there is sufficient distance between the top of the tire and the fender or bottom of the deck when fully loaded.

Q. Why don’t you use the smaller 18.5” “donut” tires on your snowmobile trailers like other manufactures? It would give a lower deck / loading height!

A. I use the 20.5”, 10 ply, “E”-rated tires on single axle snowmobile trailers due to their increased load carrying capacity over the smaller 18.5” tires (1535# per tire verses 940# when fully inflated). Most 2-place snowmobile trailers I’ve seen, have 2000# axles and the 18.5” tires. The weakest link of the two (2000# axle & 18.5” tires) are the tires at a total capacity (fully inflated) of 1880#. Subtract the weight of the trailer (800# for example), and you end up with a total carrying capacity on the trailer of 1080#----often less than the weight of two average snowmobiles. While the 20.5” tires I use give 1” additional deck height, the total capacity (fully inflated) of the tires is 3070#-----minus the 800# trailer weight, providing a total carrying capacity on the trailer of 2270# when using a 3500# axle. That combination of tires and axle provides a much more versatile and usable trailer.

Q. Why don’t you use the 20.5” donut tires on your double axle snowmobile trailers?

A. Due to the weight generally carried on double axle trailers, brakes are required. Unfortunately, there are not brakes available to fit the rims of the 20.5” tires. They do make brakes to fit the smaller 18.5” rims, but they do not provide sufficient load carrying capacity. I therefore use the 13” tires and white spoke wheels which accept
brakes but do increase the deck height about 1 ¾” without significantly reducing the carrying capacity.

Q. I ordered a set of your plans but I want to build my trailer 6’ longer---can I just add 6’ of length and follow everything else as outlined in the plans ?

A. Yes----but! Yes, you can build a longer trailer than the example in the plans. In fact, you will notice that it states that on the first page of the plans. However, you must also follow the guide lines for correct axle placement for the length of deck you intend to build and load you intend to carry (also provided in plans). Additionally, for the extra length (6’), you should use heavier / thicker material for the main frame and possibly the tongue to provide better support for the longer length / load and reduce frame flex.

Q. I like your “Alaska Tough Trailer” designs but I live in the “lower 48”, can you ship trailers out of Alaska?

A. Sure!----How much is an arm and a leg worth? Seriously, the cost is very prohibitive! For that reason ( and the many requests for my trailers from outside of Alaska), you can order my easy to follow, step by step plans over the internet and pay with your credit card. That way, you, a friend or local shop can build the same trailer ----and cheaper than it would cost here in Alaska. You can also order an enclosed cargo trailer and pick it up at one of 4 factories in the lower 48.

Q. Is delivery within Alaska possible?

A. Yes, to communities on the interior Alaska road system but expensive. There is a charge for delivery as it takes fuel and time and with current fuel costs, it would be much cheaper for you to pick it up. Combine it with a shopping trip to the big city!

Q. I want an open trailer built with some custom features included, but if you are not building anymore, am I out of luck?

A. Not at all! I am partnering with a local Anchorage shop to build custom open type trailers of various styles (snowmobile/ATV, car haulers, utility, flatbed, tilt trailers, landscape, etc.). We can include whatever custom features or options you
wish. Just email or call me with your desires and I will get you a quote.

Q. Can you help me determine what size or type trailer I should get?

A. You bet! But I will need a little more information such as: What uses do you have for the trailer? What are you anticipating hauling on or in it? What is the size or max weight you plan to carry? Will you need ramps? Do you want an open or enclosed trailer? Just email or call and I will be happy to help you zero in on the trailer style
& options best suited to your desired uses.

Q. If a trailer has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVRW)of 7000 lbs., can it carry a 7000 lb. load?

A. No! The GVWR  is the max weight capacity which includes the empty weight of the trailer. For example, lets say a 16’ car hauler has two 3500 lb axles, indicating a GVRW of 7000 lbs. If the Curb Weight (empty) of that trailer is 1200 lbs, the Carrying or Load Capacity would be 5800 lbs. (7000 – 1200).

Q. Why do you say the GVRW of your double axle snowmobile trailer is approx. 5500 lbs when it has two 3500 lb axles?

A. Because I generally use 13” tires & wheels for the dbl axle snowmobile trailers to keep the deck height as low as possible and still have electric brakes. The max capacity of the 13” tires & wheels is approx. 5500 lbs. When you then subtract the empty weight of the trailer (say 1400 lbs), you then have a carrying capacity of approx. 4100 lbs. You can increase the GVRW & carrying capacity by using 14” or 15” tires & wheels, but your deck height then also increases.

Q. How can you sell enclosed cargo and snowmobile trailers so much cheaper than any of the other dealers in Alaska?

A. In a nutshell, this has and continues to be a one person operation so there are no staff to pay, little overhead, no large parking lot of inventory to pay interest on ( while it sits idle) and no freight company to pay very high transportation expenses for shipping to Alaska. Currently, local dealers are routinely adding approx. $150 a running foot of trailer length to the retail price for shipping alone, which is then passed on to the customer. You can check out the OPTIONS listed on the Cargo Trailer Page and see how I can save the customer big $. Another factor might be the difference between what I see as a “fair” price and a “greedy” one. Enough said!

Q. How much can I expect to save here in Alaska on an enclosed cargo through you?

A. Some current examples as of October ’05. Local dealer wants $2500 for a 4’x 6’ cargo----my price for the same trailer is $1875. Local dealer wants $4850 for a 6’ x 12’ with rear ramp & side door and 6” additional height-----my price for the same trailer is $4075. Local dealer wants $11,200 for a 24’ car hauler with 5200 lb axles, side door, rear ramp, etc.-----my price for the same trailer is $8500. Again, check out the OPTIONS on the Need A Trailer Page to see how easy it is to get a trailer.

Q. If I order a cargo through you for pick up at the factory, how much can I expect to save and do I have to personally pick it up?

A. Your price will be approx. 10% less than a local dealer in the factory location, which could be hundreds of dollars depending on the size of trailer. Anyone you or I designate can pick up your trailer---could be your uncle Harry coming to visit, a friend moving here, etc. It also could be someone you allow the use of your trailer (to haul their belongings up) in exchange for free transportation to Alaska.

Q. I am moving to Alaska and hauling my stuff in a new enclosed cargo trailer I have already purchased, but have no need of it after we arrive and don’t want a lengthy hassle of trying to sell it. Will you buy it?

A. Possibly! If your trailer is in very good to new condition when it arrives and it is a model I can use or have a buyer for, I may be able to give you 90-95% of what your purchase invoice states you paid for it (remember it will be a used trailer upon arrival). It must be clean inside & out and subject to my inspection. Coordinating with me in advance would be helpful.

Q. How do I go about getting a heavy equipment trailer through you?

A. Because of the much smaller market, heavy duty application and very high cost of transportation to Alaska, I do not stock these. They are however, available through me from dealers in Washington, Oregon and North Dakota. They can be ordered built at the factory with the features & options you wish, delivered to the dealer and ready for you to pick up. Again, you may save up to 10% off retail.