Alaska Tough Trailers by

TRAILER SERVICE & USE POINTERS

Whether you are a purchaser of a new trailer, used trailer or building one from scratch, trailers like most everything require periodic service. Here are some basic but helpful tips on keeping any trailer in top form for many years.

ELECTRICAL LIGHTING

The electrical harness (cable) is run inside the tongue and framework to prevent damage and for off road trailer use. It is recommended to periodically inspect the trailer and wire harness for damage. Also some electrical grease can be applied to the connector (trailer plug) to prevent corrosion.

 Typical Wiring Diagram for 6-way Round Connectors

	S*   Accessory	Red
	GD Ground	White
	TM Taillights	Brown
	RT Right turn	Green
	LT Left turn	Yellow
	A* Brakes	Black

Caution: I use the “A” pin for Brakes however some manufactures use “A” for
Accessory and “S” for Brakes.

Wiring Diagram for Flat 4-way Connector

Electric Brake Wiring

Electric brakes use 2 wires from the wire harness for operation: a hot wire (I use black) and the ground wire (white). Either wire from the brake drum / axle may be used as “hot” or “ground”. A “brake controller”, usually mounted under the vehicle dash, is required in order to properly utilize the trailer brakes. The controller provides for trailer brake adjustment based on the weight of the load being carried. I use little or no trailer brake when towing empty as the weight of the trailer isn’t much. If attempting to tow your trailer with a different vehicle then usual and the brakes are locked up ---the plug of the tow vehicle is wired differently then your trailer. Usually the wire for “accessory” and “brake” are swapped. You can easily make a temporary change of the two wires on your trailer plug if desired.

TILT LATCHING PIN

The tilt latching pin is provided on tilt bed trailers. This latch pin locks the tilt bed in place for roadway use. It is and can be released for loading and unloading the sled to the trailer. CAUTION: Care should be used when loading and tilting the bed so not to pinch hands, fingers, clothing and the like. Also insure the pin is in place before towing the trailer.

SNOWMACHINE / ATV TRAILER LOADING RAMPS

While the loading ramps are usually used on the rear and front (“V” nose trailers) of trailers, they may also be used on the sides for side loading if the trailer is suitable for that type of loading. CAUTION: Always use a strap to secure the loading ramp to the trailer when loading or unloading as the sudden jolt of a snowmachine ski, for example, could cause the ramp to dislocate from it’s mounting position.

TIRES & CHANGING TIRES

The most common area of tire failure or problems is under inflated tires. Always check the tire pressure before towing the trailer, Max PSI listing is on the tire sidewall. Additionally, if the front axle tires are wearing more then the rear axle tires, chances are that your ball / coupler height is too low and your trailer is lower in the front then the back----placing more weight & wear on the front axle tires. A higher insert for the hitch is needed to level the trailer. Tire replacement should be considered when less then 1/8” tread depth is on the center diameter area of the tire or with uneven tire wear.

Change and replace tires when needed. Jack up under frame structure -- area of axle is best. After replacing a tire on the hub, start all nuts by hand to prevent cross threading. It is recommended to tighten nuts in a 3-stage process following the common bolt pattern (On a 5-bolt hub with one nut at 12 o’clock , the others will be at about 2, 5, 7 & 10 o’clock). First round snug in to a 25 ft-lb, next round to a 60 ft-lb and finish out at 80 ft-lb. Start with the nut at 12 o’clock, then 7, then 2, then 10, then 5.

HITCH COUPLER ADJUSTMENT

When connecting your trailer to the towing vehicle, it is important that the hitch coupler is adjusted with the correct amount of tension for both smooth and safe trailer performance. A loose connection may cause the coupler to disconnect or to rattle. On non-hydraulic couplers, a over-tight lever coupler will make it difficult to connect and disconnect. This can also transmit unnecessary vibration to the towing vehicle.

Most all RRR Enterprises models use one form or another of lever lock hitch coupler. If you have a trailer with a hydraulic coupler, hand tighten as needed to prevent any vibration or noise.

On the lever lock coupler, the amount of locking force can be adjusted to the diameter of the hitch ball. To change the amount of locking force against the hitch ball:

1) Release the hitch coupler-locking lever (to its straight up position).
2) Locate the adjustment nut on the bottom of the hitch coupler.
3) Rotate the nut on the threaded shaft clockwise to increase tightness and counter clockwise to decrease tightness.
4) Remount the trailer coupler on the hitch ball.
5) Push down the hitch coupler-locking lever to its horizontal locking position.
6) Repeat steps 1 through 5 until a snug fit is obtained.

CAPACITY LOAD

Each trailer is designed for a specific MAX. LOAD. Material strength, coupler capacity, axle limits, tires & rim load capacity limits are some of the factors in this calculation figure. Most folks want to know how much weight can they carry on their trailer. To determine this you must go to the “weakest” element of your trailer, either the axle (s), tires, or coupler. Remember that old saying----“a chain is as strong as it’s weakest link”. That goes for trailers also. So for example, you have a double axle 18’ snowmobile trailer with two 3500# axles, 13” tires and a 5000# rated coupler. The two axles have a total capacity of 7000# minus the 1400# weight of the trailer for a carrying capacity of 5600#. But wait a minute, those four 13” tires have a total capacity (fully inflated) of about 5900# minus the 1400# weight of the trailer for a carrying capacity of 4500#. Hold on as we aren’t finished yet. That coupler has a rated capacity of 5000# minus the 1400# weight of the trailer for a carrying capacity of 3600#. Therefore in this example the weakest link is the coupler, which should limit your total carrying capacity on that trailer to no more then 3600#.

Remember larger tires alone do not necessarily provide for more carrying capacity.

GREASING AND ADJUSTING WHEEL BEARINGS

The number one cause of axle vibration and/or failure is insufficiently greased or improperly adjusted wheel bearings. This problem can easily be avoided by simply folowing the procedures outlined here. It is recommended that this is done after the first 100 miles and every 1500 miles or annually which ever comes first and more often in high moisture conditions.

Some trailers are equipped with ACCU-LUBE hubs which is pictured here. This system makes it very easy to keep the hub properly lubricated. Use high quality wheel bearing grease; remove the little rubber end plug and pump in with grease gun until grease emerges back out the surrounding metal end cap area. Re-install the rubber plug.

On regular hubs, just remove the metal dust cap, cotter pin, nut and slide hub off spindle. Remove old grease seal and re-grease both the inner & outer bearings. Insert the rear bearing and new grease seal. Slide the hub onto the spindle then the outer bearing and nut. Follow steps below for correct bearing adjustment.

Follow the steps below to properly adjust your wheel bearings.

1) Remove dust cap to expose bearing nut.
2) Remove cotter pin, nut and washer.
3) On NEW bearings and races, tighten bearing nut to 20-30 ft-lbs, to insure the bearings are properly seated. On existing (used)
bearings and races, snug it to a 5-10 ft-lbs to seat the bearings.
4) Loosen the bearing nut completely until the nut can be turned by hand.
5) Re-tighten bearing nut to Zero Lash or Finger Tighten the nut while rotating the hub.
6) If the cotter pin can be inserted, please do so now without backing the bearing nut off. If the cotter pin cannot be inserted with the nut finger tight, back the nut off to the nearest available location.
7) Reinstall metal end cap and rubber plug (if equipped). Check to make sure the cotter pin is not going to interfere with the dust cap after it is completely assembled.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Periodically (say every 1-3 uses) inspect the trailer front to rear and the underside for any faults or faulty looking areas. Be sure to grease the axle bearings after the first 100 miles of use and every 1500 miles there after. Keep a small notebook – log for the trailer and its usages. This notebook will help you maintain a sound operating trailer for years to come.

Always check and tighten the nuts and bolts on the trailer, general road vibrations and rhythms can be hard on the tightest of nuts and bolts even on the tow vehicle.

Rocks, sand, gravel, salt, etc. found on most Alaskan roads (especially in the winter), can take the paint off a trailer in short order. While the trailer undersides may be a constant battle, you can touch up most chips, and worn areas with a couple coats of spray paint after a good cleaning, brushing, etc. Deck screws can occasionally work loose or possible break but are easily replaced. A fresh coat of exterior paint and or water proofing material will make the deck look new and last a long time.

PROPER LOADING AND UNLOADING

Loads should be placed on the trailer to apply proper tongue weight: about 10% of load weight. The trailer balance point will be the approx. mid-point of the trailer main deck. Ideally, the load being carried should have equal dispersion forward & backward from that point. However, do not exceed coupler tongue weight specification, tire max. capacity nor axle rating. Increase or decrease the tongue weight by moving the load forward or backward. When possible, loads should also be placed to apply equal weight to all tires to prevent unequal or premature tire wear. If loading / unloading a heavy item, block up the back end of the trailer so as not to “pop” the coupler off or raise the tow vehicle up. Traveling with uneven loads could cause loss of traction and braking abilities making it a hazardous load to be on the roadway.

TIE DOWN SYSTEM

Loads being carried on any trailer should be securely tied down to prevent movement or shifting during transport or heavy braking. Most snowmachine trailers are equipped with ski tie-down brackets / bars with a hand crank bolt handle, one for each sled location. Additional straps maybe used when traveling farther distances and over rough terrain. Owner must supply straps and use judgment for this implementation. WARNING: You need to check the tie-downs regularly when traveling. Road rhythm vibrations could cause a bolt to loosen. Tie-down systems (chains & binders, ratchet straps, etc.) on other type trailers must also be checked frequently while traveling for the same reasons